Anchor Building
At Summit Climbing Guides, we understand the importance of mastering the intricate skill of building rock climbing anchors. That's why we offer the comprehensive Anchor Building for Rock Climbing Course.
In this course, you'll gain invaluable knowledge on gear placement, objective gear analysis, anchor point equalization techniques using cordelettes, slings, and static ropes. We'll guide you on locating the ideal master point and teach you how to set up anchors safely for your climbing partners while prioritizing your own safety.
After covering the essential material, we'll join forces to build extended top rope anchors, anchors for multi-pitch routes and so much more, allowing you to put theory into practice by climbing on them. Aspiring trad climbers looking to learn independently are strongly encouraged to begin with this class, which is also a recommended pre-requisite for our Intro to Trad and multi-pitch class.
What You’ll Learn In Our Anchor Building Course
Anchor Building Course Summary:
The Anchor Building Course helps climbers switch to trad climbing by teaching anchor setup. Students learn to create and evaluate anchors, gaining skills for climbing traditional routes confidently. They can explore Joshua Tree and other climbing spots, forming anchors and climbing safely with their own gear. Students should bring gear for practice; those without receive necessary equipment. This course, rich in content, benefits from knowing terms, knots, and ERNEST anchors. After mastering trad anchors, students can advance to the Intro to Trad Course. Classes have small groups to personalize the curriculum for each student.
What Is A Rock Climbing Anchor?
Anchors keep climbers safe on the wall. They must be strong and reliable. There are two types of anchors: natural and artificial. Natural anchors are elements like boulders or trees found in nature. Artificial anchors are gear placed in the rock by climbers. Both types should be secure and able to support the climber independently.
Anchor Building Course Outline
1. Self-Introductions: The instructor and all participants introduce themselves to each other.
2. Gear Discussion: Detailed discussion on various gear items such as cams, stoppers, slings for extensions, locking and non-locking carabiners, ropes, and cordelette. Also includes tips on how to store and care for gear.
3. Cordelette Tying: Practice tying different types of cordelettes including Flemish eight, double fisherman’s, overhand. Caution against using flat figure eight and other knots that may capsize.
4. Anchors: Emphasize the importance of ERNESA anchors - Equalized, Redundant, No Extension, Strong, Angle. Explain and discuss their significance.
5. Gear Placement: Teach the 4-point system of gear placement, considering rock quality, crack shape/quality, % cammed, and ensuring all 4 lobes of the cam make good contact with the rock. Demonstrate and explain the process.
6. Gear Evaluation: Students practice placing gear and assess each other's gear using the 4-point system. Review and discuss their evaluations.
7. Cordelettes Systems: Teach different cordelette systems including 2 & 3 piece equalized systems. Discuss ERNESA, pre-equalized systems, self-equalizing systems, quads, triple quads, and other variations.
8. Extending Master Point: Demonstrate how to extend the master point using a static rope. Start with ground school to ensure understanding.
9. Super Eight Knot: Practice tying the super eight knot, used for various climbing applications.
10. Ground Anchor Building: Students learn how to build a top rope anchor on the ground, following proper procedures.
11. Real Anchor Building: Students build a real top rope anchor on top of a route, applying the skills learned.
12. Climbing and Belaying: Students climb and belay using their own top rope anchors, gaining hands-on experience.
13. Q&A and Additional Anchor Building: Dedicated time for students to ask questions and seek clarification. Students can also build another anchor to practice and reinforce their skills.